Rude Food: Bite Into Sweet, White Snow

 Vir Sanghvi, Hindustan Times:May 05, 2012



I ate my first Floating Island at a top chefs’ dinner in 1985. The dish was the dessert course at a meal cooked by some of Europe’s greatest chefs. Even now, I can remember the chefs gathering (over many glasses of champagne – most of them were French) to discuss the menu for the evening. 



There were several Michelin Three Star chefs, including the great Pierre Troisgros, Jean Lameloise, Jean-André Charial, Pierre Romeyer and Eckart Witzigmann. There were famous Two Star chefs too: Michel Rostang and Alain Dutournier.


After selecting a very French menu for the dinner (Fish in Saffron Sauce, Civet de Poulet etc.), Pierre Troisgros instructed the chefs to cook what he called ‘Iles Flottantes’ (French for Floating Island) for the dessert.


still recall the pudding. It consisted of a custard sauce in which there floated little lumps of egg white.

Given the standard of the rest of the meal (the chefs were phoning it in so the food was pretty bad), I was not surprised to find the pudding course entirely unmemorable. There was nothing wrong with it. It just wasn’t very good or at all special.

Chastened by that experience, I avoided Floating Islands for the next couple of years. If the world’s best chefs couldn’t make them taste very good, then what was the point of the dessert?

Then, in the early 1990s, somebody ordered me a Floating Island at a simple bistro in Paris. The dessert was a revelation. At the base was a lake of freshly made Crème Anglaise (what you and I call custard), tasting of milk, cream and orange egg yolks. Floating on the lake was a giant iceberg of the whitest and fluffiest meringue I had ever eaten. Biting into the meringue was like biting into the sweetest, most delicate snow. It was, I decided, going to be my favourite dessert from now on. 




And so it has remained (edging out bread and butter pudding and even an airy hot soufflé). Except that I haven’t had the chance to eat as many Floating Islands as I would have liked. Most chefs consider it a boring, old-fashioned dessert not worthy of their talents, and spend their time devising new riffs on expensive chocolate (isn’t it odd how they all want to brag about using Valrhona or Amedei or some other obscenely-priced chocolate on their menus?) or making silly little pastries. Real puddings, like the Floating Island, rarely hold their interest.

One of the few places you can still be reasonably certain of finding a Floating Island, however, is France. The French have two names for it. Oeufs à La Neige translates as Snow Eggs which is a good description of the taste of the dessert. And IIes Flottantes translates as Floating Island.

Some chefs make a distinction in that a single iceberg of meringue is called Ouef à La Neige while the kind of thing the Three Star chefs cooked in 1985, with three or four little blobs of meringue on a puddle of custard gets called Floating Island. But basically, as far as I can tell, the names are used interchangeably for the same pudding depending on the chef’s personal preference. (There is also – according to Larousse Gastronomique – a completely different dessert made with slices of sponge cake that is also called Floating Island, which adds to the confusion). 



Desert wish: Chef Raymond Blanc says that he hopes that Floating Island will be the dessert at the last supper he ever eats

The French do not regard the Floating Island as a haute cuisine dish. (The Three Star chefs were phoning it in when they made it their dessert course at our dinner and refused to do anything more elaborate). It is a bistro dish, found in small restaurants where the owners cook themselves. When Michelin-starred chefs offer it on their menus, they usually feel the need to tart it up by adding berries or some other variation and then make the point that it was cooked this way by their mothers or grandmothers by way of explanation/apology. Some – like Raymond Blanc – are honest enough to concede that it is a great pudding, far better than most of the poncy desserts that Michelin-starred chefs have created. Blanc even says that he hopes that it will be the dessert at the last supper he ever eats.

One reason why haute cuisine chefs do not bother with Floating Island is that it is relatively easy to make – for a chef anyway. (I would slash my wrists in the kitchen if you asked me to cook it.) While researching this article, I looked up as many Floating Island recipes as I could find. They were all broadly the same. The dish has three components. The first is the custard. The only point of difference between chefs is in the consistency of the custard. Some say it should be thin. Others incline to my view that it should be a relatively thickish sauce so that it forms a contrast to the lightness of the meringue.

The second component is the egg. All recipes advise the same thing: beat the egg whites till stiff and add sugar. The point of divergence is the next step. In one set of recipes, you poach the egg whites for a few minutes in either water or milk. Another set of recipes requires you to put the whites in the oven.

The third component is the value addition. Do you add a layer of caramel? Some praline perhaps? Some fresh fruit flavours? Chocolate, even? Depending on which value addition you choose, the recipe can vary.

But otherwise, it is the same straightforward method: make a custard, poach (or bake) beaten egg whites and then add Something Else for variety. You can see why fancy chefs don’t find it particularly challenging.

While the Floating Island is still easy enough to find in France, it is hard to get elsewhere. The only places in England that serve it are old-fashioned restaurants run by French chefs. Raymond Blanc does it at the Manoir and Michel Roux offers a variation at Le Gavroche in the summer. And that’s about it. Otherwise, you really have to search for the pudding.

But two years ago I discovered an incredible Floating Island at the unlikeliest of places. Coffee Beans by Dao is a chain of Thai restaurants that serves excellent versions of the local cuisine at reasonable prices. The branch I go to (at Soi Ruamrudee – I am not willing to vouch for the other branches) also has a counter that sells cakes, desserts and biscuits to either eat on the premises or to take away.

My guess is that the desserts are made in a central commissary somewhere in Bangkok and then dispatched to the chain’s branches all around the city. And I am happy to concede that there is nothing particularly fancy about the puddings. (They are not going to give Pierre Hermé sleepless nights).

But here’s the thing: they are cheap and delicious. I would gladly eat those desserts over anything produced at a fancy French patisserie. In particular, I love the crème caramel, the banoffee pie and the cheesecakes and I stay awake at nights thinking of the utterly and completely wonderful Floating Island.

You can get an excellent riff on the Coffee Beans by Dao Floating Island at the new On The Waterfront on the grounds of Delhi’s Aman Hotel. (They also do a brilliant bread and butter pudding, but that’s another story). I’ve ordered it each time I’ve gone (and that’s something like six times already!) and I sometimes think I only go there to eat the Floating Island.

You also get an upmarket Floating Island at Delhi’s Le Cirque. The food at is usually good but that is because of chef Mickey Bhoite’s determination to lighten Le Cirque’s leaden recipes. When it comes to desserts, alas, the restaurant sticks too closely to the heavy-handed traditions of the original in New York where I imagine each recipe begins with these worlds: “Take a classic French dessert. Now, make it as stodgy as possible…”

But if you can’t get to any of these places, don’t worry. You are probably a better cook than I am (and I am the world’s worst cook) so it should be easy enough for you to make your own Floating Island. Try the recipes I’ve included, and cook it yourself.
You are going to love it!

The Le Gavroche Floating Island



This is the recipe from one of London’s best regarded old establishment French restaurants. They serve it on the summer menu when strawberries are in season. 

Serves 4
500g strawberries
100g sugar or to taste
6 egg whites
340g caster sugar
300g caster sugar for caramel and poaching liquid

Carry on doing this until all the egg whites are used, not forgetting to flip the island over after 3-4 minutes to cook on both sides. Once cooked, gently take the islands out of the liquid with a slotted spoon. Place on a rack to cool and drain. When cold, pour freshly made caramel over the top – simply heat some  sugar in a heavy pan until liquid and golden.


To serve, place some compote in each bowl, followed by Crème Anglaise flavoured with vanilla, and finally the caramel-coated floating islands.

The Leela’s Floating Island
This is pastry chef Sayed Alam’s own recipe. It is not the leaden Le Cirque recipe from the same hotel. 
Crème Anglaise
125ml fresh milk
125ml fresh cream
5 egg yolks
50g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod (optional)

MethodScrape seeds off vanilla bean halves into a heavy small saucepan, add beans, milk and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat, cover and stand for five minutes.
Whisk egg yolks and caster sugar for about two minutes or until thick. Gradually whisk in warm milk mixture, stir over low heat until custard thickens and runs down the back of a spoon. Strain custard into small bowl, cover and chill for at least three hours to set.

Floating Meringue 100ml egg whites
50g caster sugar
200g fresh milk
40g castor sugar
Pinch of salt

Method Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites in a large bowl until foamy, add a pinch of salt and beat until whites hold soft peaks. Add sugar one tbsp at a time, beat until whites are stiff and fluffy. 
Scoop some meringue (about the size of an egg) onto a large oval spoon. Then, using another large spoon, gently transfer the meringue from spoon to spoon, and drop the meringue into the milk. 
Shape two or three meringues, dropping each into milk, simmer for one minute. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, turn meringues over the milk. Simmer for another minute. 
Repeat the process, shaping and then poaching six meringues. Transfer to a waxed-paper-lined baking sheet. Refrigerate for at least one hour and up to three hours.

Mango dal recipe

Navya Malini | TNN:Mumbai Mirror

Raw mango can be relished in many ways. And adding the raw mango in your dal tadka only peps up the dal. Here's how to go about it: 

Ingredients: 

Mustard seeds: ½ tsps 

Cumin seeds: ½ tsps 

Asafetida: one pinch 

Red chilies: 2 

Curry leaves: 4-5 in number 

Raw mango: 1 small sized mango 

Tuvar dal: 150 gms 

Turmeric: one pinch 

Salt to taste 

Method: 

• First steam cook the tuvar dal and once it is done keep it aside. 
• Cut the whole mango into small cubes or slices according to your comfort level. Take a pan and heat it in a low flame. Add either one tablespoon of ghee or one tablespoon of oil. 
• Add mustard seeds, cumin seeds, asafetida, halved red chilies followed by curry leaves . 
• As soon as the mustard seeds begin to crackle, add the diced raw mango slices and mix well. You can add 50-75 ml of water for the mango to cook. After leaving the mango to cook for 3-5 minutes, add the dal. 
• Add turmeric and salt to taste. Allow the dal to cook for another 5 minutes on low flame. 

Now your mango dal is ready to be had along with rice or chapatis. 

TRIPLICANE TRAIL

 The Hindu: Anushaparthasarathy: April 24, 2012

Long before the rooster, Triplicane is up, with prayers, kolam-drawers and people listening to the music of long ago. ANUSHA PARTHASARATHY captures the mood

In the wee hours of the morning, before motorcycles line the red-and-white walls of the temple and cars squeeze through its narrow roads, Triplicane looks like a sepia-tinted photograph, with its row houses and tree-lined mada streets.

It is nearly five and the temple's gopuram stands out from a distance, its emblem an incandescent white and red. Women in expertly draped saris walk briskly in pink flip-flops, wearing fresh marigolds, while others circumnavigate the temple, flowers in hand, some of which have been picked from trees along the way. At the entrance, shops that sell pooja paraphernalia are just beginning to open.

Loud recorded prayers engulf the surrounding streets in harmony with distant prayer calls from a neighbourhood mosque. Slowly, hands together in prayer, people begin to come out of their homes, heading straight to the temple doors, waiting for them to open.

Opposite the temple, Sri Krishna Bhavan is open for business, its brightly lit interiors already beginning to house hungry customers. Car Street is still sleepy but for the sound of raspy sweeping. Palm brooms are busy at work, and after their work is done, buckets of water are poured on these pathways and women busy themselves with rice flour, drawing practised patterns on the wet floor.

Tea stalls are open and music from the 1970s booms out of small radios, as customers bob their heads and reminisce about the old days, sipping hot tea. Some cows are curled up in the middle of the street while others feast on leftovers. An old Triplicane home called ‘Sarathy Nilayam' that has now become ‘Sree Vijaya Nursery and Primary School' has its doors open, beyond which lie a long corridor of rooms.

Most of the houses and shops surrounding the temple have etched its symbols on their facades. A left turn from Car Street and Singnachari Street comes into view. Kandasashti Kavasam emanates from one of the surrounding houses. The Triplicane Fund Kalyana Mandapam and Charities is bustling with food being carried in and out in large sacks and people shouting out instructions. Finally, around 5.30 a.m., the gurgled call of a rooster signals the coming of dawn.

The smaller markets behind the temple open with fresh stocks of vegetables being lifted out of carriers. The flower sellers are setting up shop, stringing fresh jasmine and roses into garlands.

Outside the provision stores, milk packets in plastic trays are stacked on top of each other, sometimes as tall as five feet. Turmeric-stained cloth bags are filled. Prices are haggled over.

Triplicane High Road is already busy, and as the first rays of light descend from the sky, traffic begins to thicken. Ratna Café has its regulars buried deep in newspapers while bachelors fill up the other tables. Hot discussions take place over vadai, idli and pongal swimming in pools of sambar poured from stainless steel mugs. The familiar aroma of filter coffee follows us everywhere. Zambazar with its ash-marked blue doors opens with clusters of bananas dotting the pavements and dark aubergines tumbling out of upturned bags.

At 6 a.m., three men, two playing the tavil and nadaswaram and one with a covered brass pot on his head, wake up the neighbourhood with their daily rounds around the temple. “It is only after the pot has gone for its rounds that the temple is opened,” says one of the shopkeepers outside.

The doors are opened and people rush in. “The viswaroopam pooja is over. You can all go in,” someone shouts from inside, while a staff member at the entrance nods and says, “This has been Triplicane's wakeup call every day over many years.”

Sure enough, the nadaswaram plays its last note, lights begin to flicker in nearby homes, and the revving of engines shatters the stillness of time.

The latest to hit the Chennai sizzler scene is Yoko,

Ameeta Agnihotri, TNN | Apr 23, 2012, 12.00AM IST

A trip to Chennai's latest sizzler joint will have you say "yo" to Yoko

Indian sizzler joints have Japanese sounding names. The latest to hit the Chennai sizzler scene is Yoko, a joint with its origins in Mumbai - the sizzler's Indian hometown. A hip joint called Touche (I know, I know, Touche is French), introduced the chain. Kobe branched out and was followed by its sister Yoko.

Chennai's branch is located on Khader Nawaz Khan Road. We walked into the building through a passage that leads to the lift, via which we landed straight at Yoko's doorstep and into its single hall dining space done up in red, black and beige. Set in rows are steel-based moving tables with long sofas on one side and no-nonsense steel and plastic chairs on the other. We made the mistake of choosing a table right outside the kitchen door, heard kitchen cacophony and walked out smelling like sizzlers ourselves.

Our first order arrived. Cold coffee, a few sips later, it lay discarded - too sweet. My heart sank. Grilled Mushroom with Cheese came next in a nondescript plate with Yoko's famous French Fries. What a dream in a plate those fries turned out to be. A great idea is to douse them with home-made tomato sauce and mustard.

For the main course, we chose to opt for Chicken Sashlik and Fish Satellite. The verdit? Delectable. The veggies are fresh, oil and salt free in a virtuous way. And the feeling of loving the body continues when the waiter tells us all steak is grilled. The pomfret was divine. Produce comes in fresh every morning around 10, he divulged the staff member serving us. Much later, when we had paid the bill, we learnt something that would entice the weight watchers, "If you are on a diet, let us know and we will hold the oil," informed the staff.

For our sweet ending, we chose to opt for Yoko's signature dessert, the caramel custard, is a light finish to a filling meal.

20B, 2nd Floor, Khader Nawaz Khan Road, Contact: 42180888
Timings: 11 am - 11 pm
Price: 1,000 Meal for two
Credit cards accepted

Rating:
Food: 2.50
Service: 2.00
Decor: 3.00

April is ‘Grilled Cheese Sandwich’ month

Apr 23, 2012, 12.00AM IST
Bet you didn't know that! But for those who love their sandwich with a cheese melt, this is probably a good time to have it.


Also called a toastie, the grilled sandwich comes in a variety of avatars. Read on to know more...


A little history first...
The Ancient Romans were the first to make a cooked bread and cheese sandwich. There are other cultures that have their own version. In France it's called Croque Monsieur while in Switzerland people melt cheese and toast the bread separately.


A few interesting fillings:
One can use a variety of fillings from chicken to red meats, and salami. In Mumbai, the choices are as eclectic as it gets! From the kebab and bhelpuri sandwich to an idli and paneer dosa sandwich, you can get your hands on some unusual flavours.

Grilling trick:
Spread softened butter on one side of the slice of bread. Put it the 'butter side' down, in a non-stick pan. Put a slice of cheese on it. Cover it with the other slice of bread, buttered side up. Allow it to heat. The sandwich needs to cook until it's golden brown outside (check with a spatula). After two minutes flip it.


Did you know?
Today's version of the grilled cheese sandwich originated in the 1920s when sliced bread and American cheese was easily available.


(Compiled by Ismat Tahseen)

Chennai is a foodie’s fantasy

Rohit Panikker, TNN | Apr 25, 2012, 12.00AM IST

From the classic tea kadai to the fast food joints, Chennai has it all.

The best part about living in an urban metropolis like ours is the diversity, and it does not stop with just the people. Chennai's always been a foodie's paradise. From the crisp dosas and delightful chutneys to the forever-popular street food as well as variety internationalcuisine open to your choice, the city has always one been for those who love and appreciate new tastes and culinary experiments.

From spicy chaats to Burmese food

 
To begin with, the street food trail will take you through the narrow bylanes of north Chennai to the streets of Egmore or Aminjikarai. You don't have to worry about burning a hole in your pocket to feast on good chaat or a sandwich. Of course, no one can resist a round of pani puri followed with a stick of cold kulfi in Nungambakkam or a few spoons of the Burmese Atho (boiled rice prepared with spices and sauces) near the Second Lane Beach road or even a bite from the stuffed toasted sandwiches on Montieth Road.

Kebabs anyone?

 
For those who fancy some inexpensive non-vegetarian food, the row of kebab places on Royapettah would be your best bet! For a city that is home to some of the best educational institutions in the country, these street food vendors enjoy constant patronage from students and young working adults. Why, you ask? When you can snack on anything from the ever-favourite vada and tea combination or a juicy kati roll, each for less than Rs 50, who would really complain?

Seafood still rocks

 
Chef Damu, one of the city's favourite chefs, is in awe of the culinary traditions of this meting pot of spices called Chennai. He says, "If there's one authentic dish that belongs to Chennai it has to be the seafood. "Chennai, being a coastal city, has an abundance of tasty sea food. It doesn't stop at just the small fish. I make excellent shark puttu, which is very popular," beams Damu. And Chennaiites can't live without their spices. Peppers, cumin, fenugreek, coriander ... Name it and we have it!

Good ol' Biriyani

 
Among the non-vegetarians, are you one who shares the south Indian fantasy for biriyani? Well, you are in for a treat! Start from the flavoured Hyderabadi biriyani, the north Indian dum biriyani, the rich Kerala biriyani or even the delicious kuskas you get in the roadside stalls...the list is endless!

But where Chennai stands out is how it caters to its vast population of vegetarians. Sure, there's always the standard idly-dosa-kaapi or saapaad. But you'll be fascinated by what the street stalls can put together for veggies.

So, whether you are one who eats to live or one who lives to eat, this city has everything for you! 

So pick up that plate, and take a long, savoury bite. Bon appetit! Or rather, vaangai saapidalaam!

A spicy route to good health

TNN | Apr 24, 2012, 12.00AM IST

Spices do much more than just flavour your food. Used correctly, they are a storehouse of curative properties 

Spice is nice and even nicer in traditional Indian cuisine. Think about it, what would our curries, gravies and sabzis be without essential ingredients like chillies, turmeric, coriander and the likes? And what would a tadka be without mustard, cumin and curry leaves?

 And there's that all important garam masala which - as the name suggests - is a blend of an assortment of spices. 

But taste isn't the only benefit you can derive from spices. Ask the elders in your house and they are sure to start off a litany about the various medicinal properties of all the spices that are a part of everyday cooking. 

Yes, just like each of these spices have their unique flavour, in their own way they also work to contribute to our health. While turmeric is being researched for its potential to prevent cancer, coriander seeds, which have anti-inflammatory properties, are being studied for their connection to cholesterol reduction. The flaming red chilli is associated with a range of health benefits including reducing congestion, pain relief, prevention of stomach ulcers and even weight loss. 

But as the golden rule says, you need to use them in moderation, as using these spices in excessive amounts may just work adversely and harm you. Below are a couple of spices (that we use rather extensively) and their medicinal properties explained: 

Garlic (Lahsun) 

Yes, it may give you bad breath but when you consider its medicinal properties, that is a small price to pay. Right from helping in maintaining cholesterol and high blood pressure levels to fending off colds, heart disease, infection and even impotence, garlic also has antifungal and antibiotic properties.

 Research has also proved that garlic has the ability to reduce the formation of cancer causing compounds and slowing the growth of tumour cells. It also helps raise the levels of HDL (good cholesterol) and prevent LDL (bad cholesterol) from building up on the walls of the arteries, thus reducing the chances of plaque formation. In fact, just two cloves a day can reduce your cholesterol level by a massive nine per cent. 

For those suffering from hypertension, garlic helps control the blood pressure by thinning the blood and keeping clots from forming. Remember, one can obtain the most out of garlic when it is consumed in its raw form, crushed or finely chopped. However, don't overdo it - excess garlic can irritate the digestive tract. 

Ginger (Adrak) 

 
Apart from flavouring your morning cup of tea, ginger works wonders to treat a whole lot of illnesses. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it a natural remedy for heartburn. It is also effective against morning sickness, migraine, cold and flu, stomach ailments and even those dreaded menstrual cramps. 

Ginger is also being researched as an effective treatment for ovarian and colon cancer as it has been found to induce cell death in ovarian cancer cells and slow the growth of colorectal cancer cells.