The magic and logic of mangoes

The Hindu:A shrikumar:Madurai:23 May 2012

The king of fruits is a luscious indulgence but only when you can identify the right ones. Here are some of the sweet and sour facts.

Mention mango and your mouth waters. Be it the raw green maangais or the juicy yellow mampazhams, the fruit is used in everything from sambhars and kuzhambus to desserts and cakes. A rich source of vitamins and minerals, mango enhances body metabolism and has a ‘Midas touch’ on your skin.

But, of late, people have become apprehensive of buying mangoes. What an artificially ripened mango can do to you is hard to digest. Divya, a school student, recalls last Sunday morning when she woke up with severe stomach ache and needed to visit the toilet frequently all day. After scores of tests and diagnoses, the doctor chalked it up to that delicious mango she had enjoyed the previous night.

Chemical storehouses

Mangoes are fast becoming chemical storehouses. “Using carbide stones to ripen mangoes is like heating the fruit,” warns Dr. Sathiyan, general physician. “Consumption of such mangoes may lead to severe dehydration and can also affect the kidneys and liver.” Frequent consumption of artificially ripened mangoes can increase the toxin levels in the body. Doctors identify the immediate effects as severe headache, stomach ache, diarrhoea and vomiting.

“Nowadays, it is very difficult to see mangoes that ripen while still on the tree. Climate changes have affected natural cycles of flowering and fruit yielding,” says Arumugam, owner of a mango farm at Mettukadai Village, near Sirumalai. “Mangoes from Sirumalai sell all over South India. The increasing demand has forced wholesale vendors to ripen the fruit artificially.” Instead of using chemical stones, he suggests using hay for advancing the ripening stage.

“One needs to be careful while selecting mangoes,” says Soosai, a retired health official. “Repeated seizures by the local body and coverage in the media have made people much aware.” Many who fell ill after consuming artificially ripened mangoes feel strongly about the issue. Arul Francis, a college student, has even started a discussion on his blog that has attracted enthusiastic comments. Another member of ‘efarm buyer guide’, an online forum, has uploaded a video on Youtube explaining the ways to recognize an artificially ripened mango.

However, at Simmakkal market, the fruit mandis are stocked with mangoes and business is brisk even till late in the night. Meenal, a roadside vendor, laments that the native fruits are neglected in favour of hybrids and imported mangoes. She says, “I bring the fruits directly from my farm at the village but local breeds are no more selling.” Exotic varieties such as Alphonso, Imam Pasand and Banganepalle are in high demand, while kasa, kallamai and Sappattai are either used in juice shops or bought unripe for pickling.

This year, vendors claim that the yield is poor and the demand has gone up. The retail price of the usual varieties has increased considerably, while Alphonso, which is never accessible to the ‘aam aadmi’, costs up to Rs. 1000 a kilo.

If you are a diehard mango lover, apply a little logic. Buy green mangoes to avoid risk, choose local varieties, or else simply opt for one of those mango drinks that celebrities endorse.

THE RIGHT PICK: Artificially ripened mangoes look extremely polished and shiny but naturally ripened ones will have wrinkles on the skin.

Flesh near the seed in mangoes ripened with carbide stones will taste sour while good mangoes will have a uniform taste.

The colour of a normally ripened mango will be a smooth, homogenous shade of green and yellow while artificially ripened ones will have patches of green or yellow.

Mangoes sold before May can be expected to be artificially ripened.

VARIETIES AND RATES: 

(Wholesale rates in Rupees per kg at Madurai’s Simmakal fruit market)

Balamani -- 15

Senthooram -- 15

Kaalapaadi -- 25

Totapuri or Kallaamai -- 10

Neelam or Kaasalattu -- 15

Sappattai -- 25

Imam Pasand – 40 to 50

MANGO MANIA: If you are skeptical about buying mangoes, here is a chance to still satiate your craving for the flavour. Check out the wide range of mango-made pastries at ‘Mango fiesta’ at The Pastry Shop in Hotel Fortune Pandiyan. The fest is on till the month’s end.

Mango mouse gateaux

This is a lip-smacking cold dessert with a lingering tinge of mango and vanilla flavours.

INGREDIENTS:

Milk - 250 ml

Egg - 3 nos

Sugar - 75 gm

Whipped cream - 150 gm

Gelatin – 20 gm

Vanilla essence - for flavour

Mango essence - for flavour

Mango crush – 30 ml

Fresh mango - 1 no

Vanilla sponge

Yellow food colouring

METHOD:

Mix egg yolk, sugar, milk and vanilla essence and double boil. Mix 20 ml gelatin with 25 ml water and add to the boiled mixture. After it becomes thick, add fresh cream, mango essence, mango crush and yellow colouring and mix well.

Take a tray, put the sponge in it and pour the essence on it. Repeat it once more and keep it in the fridge in cold dessert mode for 15 mins. Garnish with cherry, mango crush and mint leaves.

(Courtesy: Chef S. Aravind, Hotel Fortune Pandiyan)